Allerheiligen

The first of November is All Saints day, the second All Souls. Is there a difference? Well, technically yes. The first is a day on which the righteous are remembered and honored, the saints. The second a day to remember all those who are no longer with us, loved ones, family members and friends.
   Both of these days are school holidays here in Austria. And whether the idea of sainthood hasn't carried over into the modern mindset as much as it did in previous centuries, or whether there is a feeling that anyone who is Catholic is essentially holy, (Heilig), The day which is observed is the first rather than the second. And is, therefore, the subject of today's post. On this first day of November, there is no time frivolously wasted thinking about saints, their lives, or the lessons they could teach us. It is a day to visit the graves. Most similar in fact to Mexico's Day of the Dead. In fact, the day of the dead in Mexico is a result of a combination of traditional practices and beliefs with Catholicism brought from the old world in the early days of colonialization. It is, therefore, no surprise that the day of the dead is observed on Aller Heiligen. All Saints Day. And like the day of the dead, November first is a day to visit and decorate the graves of loved ones.

Walking home on All Saint's Day

    Austria, unlike some countries, does not give you a cemetery plot indefinitely, it is leased for a certain amount of time, eg. 100 years. The responsibility of caring for it, planting flowers and generally keeping it up to fall to the family and are passed on from generation to generation. It will come as no surprise that often families share a grave.  If you choose to no longer use the plot, the bones are dug up, put in the ostuary and the plot is let to someone else. Seeing large piles of bones, randomly lying in a 'room' with a cast iron door was rather horrible to me when I first arrived, as was finding a tooth and the digit of a finger near a freshly dug grave. However, time often mellows our perceptions and having lived here for many years now, it seems not unsurprising that such a dense population coupled with a long history of civilization, must result in a very pragmatic approach being taken toward burying and dealing with one's dead. But back to the annual visit.
   Each church has a service where the priest gives a short mass for the souls of the dead, and then walks with incense through the graveyard. Usually, the visitors follow in a procession and then scatter to visit their individual graves. Flowers and Grabgesteck (grave decorations) are brought and placed on the grave, often with a lit candle. Obviously, this being Austria, and Austrians being both conscientious and concerned with appearance, the graves are tidied in advance. November first is not the day to do a little weeding, it is the day to adorn and remember. Occasionally there is the opportunity to subvertly examine the graves of your neighbors and friends. It is with a great sense of delighted humor that I have witnessed the occasional tiff between two middle-aged women over who had the better decoration.

Bildunterschrift hinzufügen

Both photos from Pixabay.com

    Decorations are generally made of natural elements such as moss, pinecones, seedpods, pine branches and other nondestructables which will be able to weather the elements for several weeks or even months before having to be removed. Heather and chrysanthemums are flowers typically planted at this time, and being so intimately associated with death, are inappropriate to bring someone as a hostess gift. These decorations are available at many florists as well as right outside the graveyard. Here is a picture of a decoration that was available at a friend's flower shop last week:

Rosa's Art- Photo credit goes to Rosa Brenkusch

   As with every holiday there are traditions involved, and as is usual, one of those traditions is food related. On November first it is customary to eat a slightly sweet, braided milk bread, called Striezel. In the days and even week(s) leading up to the first, it slowly begins to appear in bakeries until at last, it is available everywhere, from supermarkets to banks. These loaves were traditionally baked and placed on the graves for the souls in torment who were given an annual reprieve from purgatory on All Soul's Day.
   The braid represents the ancient custom of cutting the braided hair from the body of the dead before burial. A fact that I learned while doing a little research for this post. And, to be entirely honest, is not remembered in current tradition or culture. Luckily, since it robs the bread of a bit of its charm.

   For the sake of transparency, I have to admit that after about three All Saint's Day observances I decided to opt out. It is a little grusome for my taste. I usually buy the Grabgesteck but then stay home while my husband goes to the graves of his family members


Do you have a day set aside for visiting graves? Is there a cultural habit of either celebrating or morning the dead? Is All Saints day observed in your country? Let me know in the comments.


To get posts as soon as they are published click on the subscribe button at the top of the page or Follow by clicking on the follow button.